Traditional clothing of the Evenks
exemplified by the personal collection of the folk master of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia),
a native of the village of Khatystyr, Aldansky district,
Nadezhda Mikhaylovna Grigorieva
Photo 1-2. Traditional winter clothing of the Evenks (from the personal collection of the People's Master of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) Nadezhda Mikhailovna Grigorieva)
Photo 3-4. Traditional spring-autumn caftan of the Evenks (from the personal collection of the People's Master of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) Nadezhda Mikhailovna Grigorieva)
The Evenki, an indigenous people of Siberia, have historically adapted to harsh climate conditions, which is reflected in their traditional clothing. This clothing not only provided protection from the elements, but also reflected cultural heritage and a connection with nature.
The most common element of the Evenki wardrobe was the parka, made from a single skin. This is a short fur coat with straight converging flaps tied with laces. The back was cut separately and reached the waist. The fur parka was devoid of decoration, which emphasized its practicality and functionality.
Spring and autumn caftans were made from rovduga (deerskin) and had a similar style to the parka. Double-wedge caftans were a later type of traditional shoulder clothing. They were also open and had a straight hem. A special feature of the cut of such caftans was the presence of two trapezoidal wedges on the back, widening the hem and giving the caftan a fitted silhouette. Above the wedges on the back there was a rectangular or trapezoidal insert.
The bib was an important part of the costume, protecting the throat and chest from frost and wind, and also decorating the costume. Bibs and aprons stood out in design and shape. Bibs were vertically elongated trapezoids or rectangles with a wedge-shaped or cut straight end. The male bib ended with a wedge and was usually framed with a fringe of goat fur or white horsehair. Women's bibs rarely had a wedge-shaped end and were decorated with patterns of stripes of multi-colored fabrics, alternating with stripes of suede and strands of reindeer neck hair. Beads of blue, yellow, white and black colors were sewn onto the fabric. A large pattern imitating a "bird's paw print" was embroidered on the upper part of women's bibs.
The most common type of Evenk headdress was a bonnet - a comfortable and elegant cap worn by both men and women. The summer bonnet was made of suede or cloth, the winter bonnet was made of reindeer, fox, squirrel, wolverine fur, etc. There were several ways to cut the cap.
The simplest in pattern were bonnets sewn from three parts: two side pieces were sewn to a strip going from the back of the head to the forehead, covering the ears and tied under the chin. Another type of bonnet was sewn from several strips of suede and fur. Such hats had a diamond-shaped piece of fur on the crown. There were bonnets sewn from four parts. The back part was elongated and went down the back, two tassels made of suede with beads and a metal pendant were attached to the back. Shoes with high shafts were worn by both men and women. Summer shoes were made of suede, and winter shoes were made of fur. Usually women's shoes had higher shafts. Long fur shoes were made of kamuses (shank deerskins) and reindeer skin with the fur on the outside and had a border decorated with beads or colored fabric. Often there were combined shoes with high shafts, sewn from kamus, reindeer fur, and the back part - from cloth.
Fur, fabric, beads, tanned leather, leather, threads and metal were used to decorate clothing and footwear. The sides and hems of caftans were trimmed with fur of a contrasting color. Some details of the cut were also emphasized with fur trim. Tanned leather, cut into fringe, was also used to trim the edges of clothing. Beads or metal pendants in the form of tubes, bells or jingles were sewn onto it. Decorative effects were achieved by trimming clothing with light and dark reindeer fur.
There was also an older method of decoration – painting leather in brown-red and gray-black colors. Birch bark stencils were used for this.
They used the technique of mosaics from strips or pieces of fur, tanned leather, leather of a contrasting color, and an applied tourniquet of white reindeer hair. There was also an applique technique, when strips of colored fabric were sewn onto tanned leather.
Traditional winter clothing of the Evenks is a vivid example of human adaptation to harsh climatic conditions. It not only provides warmth and comfort, but also reflects cultural heritage and connection with nature. In modern society, the Evenks preserve elements of traditional culture, adapting them to modern realities and emphasizing their cultural identity.
The presented traditional Evenk outfits are in the personal collection of the People's Master of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) Grigorieva Nadezhda Mikhailovna, a native of the village of Khatystyr, an Evenki from the Buta clan.
Nadezhda Mikhailovna's products have repeatedly decorated exhibition halls, ceremonial events held in the region, in the republic. She often holds master classes on sewing from fur, rovduga for the population, passing on experience and knowledge to the young.
Fedorov Svyatoslav Igorevich, senior lecturer of the department
on World, national history, ethnology, archeology
of Faculty of History, M.K. Ammosov North-Eastern Federal University.