Тунгусы – изящный и щеголеватый народ. Их по справедливости можно было бы назвать аристократами Сибири… Они наряжаются в фантастические костюмы” – этнограф М.А. Кастрен. «Одежда эвенков превосходит блестящие костюмы и парадные мундиры самых щеголеватых гвардейцев» – исследователь А.Ф. Миддендорф. “Их костюмы напоминают камзолы испанских грандов…” – первый енисейский губернатор А. Степанов
The traditions of Evenk clothing date back to the late Stone Age. According to the reconstruction of jewelry fragments preserved in the archeological monuments of the Baikal region, the clothes of the ancient inhabitants were very similar to the clothes of modern Evenks and Evens. This is indicated by the swing cut of clothes, as well as the location of jade ornaments on the clothes and headdress of the ancient "Glazkovites".
Despite the wide area of settlement, the Evenks almost everywhere retained the traditional Evenk type of clothing. The cut of clothing, fitted to the figure, as well as the breastplate were adapted for long pedestrian crossings, which was associated with the main occupation of the Tungus - hunting.
Мужская и женская одежда по покрою существенно не отличалась – основу составлял распашной кафтан или как его принято называть в научной литературе «тунгусский фрак». Делали его из одной или двух шкур копытных животных (оленя, косули и др.). Одежду украшали мозаикой из меховых полосок, полосками из окрашенной ровдуги, ткани или бисера. Мужская и женская одежда различалась, главным образом, по форме нагрудника: нижняя часть мужского нагрудника в виде треугольника, женского – прямая.
Особой красотой отличается женский нагрудник – нэл. Широкий (вверху шире, чем внизу) – он закрывает по ширине всю грудь. Аппликация из ткани, меха и бисерная вышивка у ворота и на поясной части образуют геометрические симметричные фигуры, придающие одежде законченный и нарядный вид.
The color scheme of Evenk jewelry is varied, but always very harmonious. In the southern and eastern Evenks, saturated and bright colors prevail, while in the northern and northwestern Evenks the colors are calmer, with a predominance of white and blue.
Naturally, the clothes of the Evenks have specific seasonal differences - for winter clothes, dressed autumn or, less often, winter skins of animals, most often deer, are used. The Eastern Evenks call such clothes "mukuke". Winter clothes are decorated with inserts of white, red and black fur. Evenk footwear also differed depending on the season - summer footwear was made of dressed rodvuga (suede), winter footwear was made of reindeer kamus.
The Evenki cattle breeders of Transbaikalia, as well as those living in the territory of northern China, since the beginning of ethnocultural contacts with the Mongolian peoples, adopted the appropriate type of clothing, the basis of which is a wrap robe.
This type of clothing has become traditional for some groups of Evenk reindeer living in the PRC and Mongolia. Today, among the Evenks, traditional clothes and shoes are used only in winter - everywhere where the traditional way of life - hunters and reindeer herders - has been preserved. No modern materials and brands can replace the warm, comfortable and practical Evenk clothing that has been tested for centuries.
Sources:
- Vasilevich G.M. Tunguska caftan - to the history of development and distribution // Collection of MAE. 1958. Vol. 18, p. 122-178.
- Georgi I.G. “Description of all peoples living in the Russian state. Part 3. Per. from German. - SPb., 1777. - [4], 130 p .; 20 l. silt
- Safyannikova T.M. Sonkan's rainbow of colors. - Krasnoyarsk: Siberian trades, 2005 .-- 152 p.
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